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Rolex Centregraph for Mappin & Webb, Ref.: 3462, dial only, ca. 1938

Exceedingly rare, original Rolex Centregraph ‘double name’ sector dial. Dial was made by ‘Stern Frères Geneva’ which provided all dials for Rolex at that time. Both dial feet present and in original state (not re-soldered). Recto: copper coloured matte centre (with black printed outlines of numbers 12, 3, 6, 9, once filled with luminous material, now lost), black printed (now faded) ‘Rolex Oyster Chromomètre Centregraph’ below ’12’ and retailer ‘Mappin’ (Mappin & Webb, jewellery and watch retailers in Britain since 1775 and still operating) above ‘6’. Shiny copper coloured ring in periphery, surrounded by dark copper coloured matte ring featuring black printed ‘railway’ minute ring. Small punch mark on the rim at ‘3’, enabling correct placement of the print. Verso: showing stamps of a star for ‘Stern’ manufacturers and production/model number ‘1347 2′ with separately stamped number ’74’ (client code number 103 for Rolex has been introduced after 1940).

Dimensions: Diameter: 23.13mm, for 10,5″ manual wound Rebberg movement with fly-back chronograph modification.

Additional info: The origin of this Rolex reference is very obscure. Together with the Rolex ‘Zerograph’ (Ref.: 3364) they represent the first ‘in house’ (made by Rebberg) chronograph movements which Rolex used, introduced around 1938. Both references have been produced in highly limited numbers and only for a very short time. Only a handful pieces are known to have survived of both references and the vast majority of the surviving watches feature either a refinished dial or an aftermarket dial.

This dial is not only completely original, but also features the name of the retailer. The retailer ‘Mappin & Webb’ had the dials of their watches for retail normally signed ‘Mappin & Webb’. Watches of the interwar period often show dials only marked with ‘Mappin’.

The Rolex ‘Centregraph’ reference in not to be mistaken with the Oyster ‘Centregraph’ model, which appeared around the same time, but which has no chronograph feature. ‘Oyster’, apart to be an identification for a specific Rolex case construction, was also a sub-brand of Rolex (please refer to the ‘Glossary’ section for further explanations. The ‘Rolex’ brand is not mentioned on the dials of the Oyster ‘Centregraph’ models.

Please note: The surface oxidation of this dial has partially damaged the printing. It can still be read without magnification, but some of it has disappeared. I (Gio) have cleaned the dial with ionised water, but I have not made any modifications to it. I tested the printing with appropriate chemical agents and the printing has proven to be original and not a reprint.

Usually a punch mark seen at ‘3’ on a vintage dial means that the dial is made afterwards for aligning later reprinting of the dial. In this case, as also for other dials of this era, the punch mark is contemporary to the dial manufacture.

This dial is cosmetically affected by oxidation, but remains in absolute original condition.

Price: P.O.A.

Rolex, COSC-Test dial, Datejust, Ref.: 160xx, dial only, recent

Dial used at the Swiss COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse Des Chronomètres, La Chaux-De-Fonds) facilities to check the precision of Rolex Datejust watches Ref. 160xx. White matte surface, print in black, brass base material. Both dial feet present and in original state (not re-soldered).

Dimensions: 25.9mm diameter

Additional info: These dials are not rare per se, as COSC uses hundreds of them for precision certification, but normally they are not supposed to exit the facilities. So to be able to buy one of these COSC-test dials is extremely rare. This dial will fit Rolex Cal. 3035/3135 . The dial has no stamped or engraved identification marks.

The brand name ‘Rolex’ is printed under ’12’ and the dial retains indexes plus the opening for the date at ‘3’.

A rare opportunity to have your Rolex customised with a dial, very rarely seen and giving your watch a touch of understatement.

Please note: These dials are often referred to be ‘prototype’ dials. This is absolutely not the case! These dials are rare (on the market) but are in no way prototypes.

Price: SOLD